Caring
For Your Establised Rose Bush
When the harsh weather of winter has ended uncover your Roses and
spread the medium around the bed. This will act as a top dressing.
More soil, composted manure, or bark mulch, can be spread over the
bed.
A
good rule is to start pruning your Roses in the Spring when you
see the Forsythia Bloom. Prune Roses then spray with Dormant Oil
and Lime sulphur solution, also spray the surrounding ground.
Feed
each Rose bush 1 cup Alfalfa meal, (when Alfalfa breaks down it
stimulates Rose root growth). 1/4 cup Magnesium Sulphate, (The Magnesium
assists in plant chlorophyll production, the Sulphate adds Sulphur
to the soil needed for healthy Roses). 1/4 cup Bone meal, ( this
adds Phosphorus and sweetens the soil). (Roses prefer pH of 6.2).
2 tablespoons of Paramagnetic Mineral Soil,( The mineral soil facilitates
a plants ability to transport the minerals through it’s root
system leading to faster growth, deeper, more efficient roots, flower
blooms will be brighter and possess superior fragrance, plants will
also be more resistant to stress). I can certainly attest to this.
Gently work the ingredients into the ground around the drip line
of each plant.
When
the Rose Bush starts to leaf out, start feeding with Raingrow Organic
Fertilizer
4-2-3. Mixing 10ml of product to a litre of water feed every two
week’s. Once a month, when rose is fully leafed out, foliar
spray, mixing 2ml to a litre of water spray on leaves till run off.
Do not apply in the heat of the day or when temperatures are above
30 c
I have
found this foliar spray very beneficial in the prevention of aphids
and powdery mildew.
Also
I use growth plus once a month when the Rose is fully leafed out,
again use as a foliar spray mixing 10 ml to a litre of water. This
will give the leaf a nice glossy look and aids the nutritional uptake
of plants. In addition it contains 70 trace minerals plus vitamins.
The ideal uptake of Growth Plus is achieved when plants are sprayed
first thing in the morning or late afternoon.
Water
Roses deeply the best way is a buried soaker hose used one day a
week ALL DAY. Never water the foliage of a Rose bush this promotes
Black Spot and Rust.
Clean
up all leaf litter and dead head spent blooms on a regular basis,
check your Roses daily and pick off any infected leaves as they
appear. In mid-summer remove some of the bottom foliage to improve
air circulation.
Growing
plants that attract beneficial insects will keep aphid populations
down E.g., Cosmos, Dill, Marigolds, Garlic.
In
late August stop Fertilizing your Roses, you do not want to promote
new growth that can be injured in winter. In October stop dead heading
the Roses, just remove the petals, this will cause the Rose to go
to seed and stop producing new growth.
Usually
by the end of November it is cold enough to strip the leaves off
the plant and clean up all leaf litter. DO NOT PRUNE. Except for
long spindly growth that could be damaged in winter. Dolomite Lime
the Rose beds using 5 lb. per 105 sq. ft. This will sweeten the
soil for next Spring.
Dormant
Oil and Lime Sulphur the bare canes and then mound over the plant
covering the crown with app 8 inches Bark Mulch, compost, or a soil
mix for planting can be used.
The Recipe once again is: 1 CUP ALFALFA PELLETS
for established roses only ¼ cup MAGNESIUM SULPHATE
¼ CUP BONEMEAL
2 TBS Paramagnetic Mineral Soil
We
hope this information will give you Large and Happy Roses.
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